Taking an organized tour to Koh Phi Phi

We take pride in going our own way and choosing when and where. Which is why it was out of the ordinary for us to sign up for an organized speedboat tour to Koh Phi Phi. We left early from the Sheraton in small vans but soon met up with the larger crowd at the pier near Ao Nang. It was a bit “Thai chaotic” as sign-in was explained in what can best be described as Krabi English, the kind spoken in a place not as international as Bangkok or as well known for tourism as Phuket or Koh Samui. Soon after, boat assignments were called, but this time by hotel and room number, which was marginally less recognizable than our own names.

Speedboat to Koh Phi Phi

The speedboats were new and immaculately clean. We took our seats and powered out of the harbor, heading west toward Koh Phi Phi. The boat was fast and smooth and had us at the second largest of the two Koh Phi Phi islands (Koh Phi Phi Leh) in just 45 minutes.

As we approached Maya Bay (made famous by the movie The Beach), we were surprised to see so many other boats headed for the same spot. As the shore came into view, we were even more surprised to see about twenty five other boats already backed into the beach and several hundred tourists wandering around snapping photos in zombie tourism fashion. Anyone considering a trip out the island should really hire a private boat and leave even earlier in the morning than we did or face the same disappointing scene. An alternative would be to skip this island and instead go to any one of the many other beautiful choices that dot this seas between Krabi and Phuket.

But this is what is to be expected when an amazingly beautiful beach is also famous for being the setting of a Leonardo DeCaprio film. Like everyone else, we took our pictures with the famous cliffs and lagoon but were eager to go somewhere else, and quickly. We packed up our group and soon were in Monkey Beach to snorkel, though the water wasn’t very clear and the monkeys, we were told, weren’t very friendly. They are even rumored to have monkey rabies, yet another reason to avoid this beach.

Instead, we stayed offshore and snorkeled at a small reef. We took turns watching Catherine so that we could each check out the fish and coral. But of course, we had to take Catherine in as well and she loved every minute of it.

Koh Phi Phi Don

From the crowded beaches of Koh Phi Phi Ley, we headed north to Koh Phi Phi Don, the largest of the archipelago and the only inhabited island. Far less crowded, even though larger, we had lunch at an excellent outdoor restaurant and had time to swim in the achingly blue-green water before heading for our next stop at Bamboo Island. Koh Phi Phi was completely rebuilt after the 2004 Tsunami hit the small town, located on an isthmus between the cliffs, from both sides, one side received a three meter wave and the other a six meter wave. There was no evidence of the destruction that killed eleven people and even the vegetation was fully grown.

Bamboo Island, our last stop, was the only place where we saw tsunami destruction. Just off to the side of the beach was an area of downed trees, a small pavillion half submerged and a large cement dock tossed up on the beach. It was a sobering reminder of what happened ten years ago and a warning for the future.

What started as a questionable plan at crowded Koh Phi Phi Leh turned into a fun day on the water in and around some of the most beautiful islands in the world.

We were back in time for the evening thunderstorm, a nightly event that is the reason this part of Thailand is so green and also the best way to have cool temperatures in the evening. Enjoy the video.

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