Langtang Valley Nepal in April 2010, Part 3: Kyangjin Gompa to Tsergo Ri

The following is a continuation of Langtang Valley Nepal in April 2010, Part 2: Hiking the Langtang Lirung Glacier

Only twenty-four hours into actually trekking and on our fourth day in Nepal we were treated to a hike up a nearby peak known as Tsergo Ri at 5024 m. (16,428 ft.).  The approach involved heading higher up the valley from Kyangjin Gompa, crossing a glacial snowmelt stream, and then approaching the peak from a long ridge.

Happy porters

Soon after making the stream crossing, we were passed by a group of porters from another party, whistling as they walked very quickly up the mountain despite their heavy loads. As they drew closer, it was apparent they were wearing sandals without socks in the below-freezing temperatures, further evidence of the strength and resilience of the Nepali people.

The ridge

The going became easier once we were on the ridge. The trail was smooth and we made excellent time as we climbed rapidly higher. There were once again occasional shepherd’s huts in the few grassy areas along the ridge, and the views on either side became gradually more impressive. The day warmed up to the point that we were down to shirts and pants despite a cold breeze thanks to the exertion. As we were only in our second day of acclimation we were feeling the lack of oxygen much like when we climb Mt Whitney in California after coming from sea level the day prior. An occasional stop to catch our breath was enough to keep moving, though by the time we left the ridge and started a rockier section, we were both feeling headaches and light-headed.

Toward the summit

The ridge gave way to rocks and snow and the going became slower and more difficult. Breathing also was starting to come with greater difficulty as we were both at the highest altitude we had climbed in our lives. The peak was anti-climatic except for a tricky ice field we had to cross on the north side of the peak, where the sun rarely warms the snow enough to melt off.  The peak itself was adorned with many prayer flags left by both our Nepali and Western predecessors. The views, however, were amazing in all directions and well worth the effort.  Going down, as always, was the more tricky portion of the day as our exhaustion and haste to be back in a safe and warm place had us pushing the limits of wisdom.

Up next: Part 4: Tsergo Ri to Lama Hotel