Trekking Nepal in April 2011 – Part 1: Kathmandu to Gorkha

Kathmandu

The second time we flew into Kathmandu was very different from the first.  For starters, we expected the slow, manual process of immigration and the resulting lines.  This time, though, we beat feet from the airplane and made sure were in the front.  Once through, we quickly met up with our guide and friend, Buddi, who was waiting just at the doors to the airport with a gigantic smile.  While he’s not a tall person, he towered over the other Nepalis, who are remarkably short (but strong) people.  We were loaded into Niru Rai’s SUV and were soon entering the chaotic city of Kathmandu.  Once again, the arrival was handled expertly by Adventure Geo Treks.  If you had to arrive by yourself, you’d find it quite challenging.

Hotel Vajra

Our third time in the Hotel Vajra was like coming home.  We knew the staff this time around and were immediately recognized by the owner, Kim Lama.  While many Nepalis struggle with English, Kim went to university in Colorado and has an excellent command of the language.  Although the Vajra isn’t in the tourist section of the city, Thamel, it is a wonderfully designed and well-operated hotel.

Every trek starts in Kathmandu as it is the only international airport.  Bags that are packed for flights need to be broken down and gear needs to be sorted and repacked to go into the duffel bags that porters will carry and the day packs that a trekker will take with them along the trail.  The porters will carry anything that fits in the duffel, but we try to keep our bags light, knowing that we can save them a great deal of effort and maybe pain.

We’ve developed a great checklist of things you should consider for a trek or camping trip (it is all one list, in sections) that you can download here.

Thamel

The rule of thumb in Nepal is that if you need it, it can be found in Thamel.  If it can’t be found in Thamel, you probably don’t need it.  This is the section of the city made famous by the first Westerners to arrive in Nepal and settle there decades ago.  They were bohemian, climber types and this part of the city still retains that character.  You can find some of the most technical gear (beware, however, of ‘North Fake’ and other rip off merchandise).  You may be offered “smoke”, which is marijuana (not legal in Nepal) and you’ll likely be pitched a flight around Everest or a trip to the jungles of Chitwan National Park.  We went simply to get white fuel our camp stove, which we found at the Holyland Hiking Shop for an exorbitant amount of rupees.

Driving to Gorkha

We were picked up at the Vajra the next morning and met our kitchen staff and assistant guide for the first time.  They were extremely friendly and it was very reassuring to watch how efficiently they loaded the van for departure.  The amount of gear on the rooftop was alarming, and it turned out to be not as securely tied down as we would have liked.

Driving isn’t as comfortable as flying, but getting out of the domestic airport in Kathmandu is an experience in itself and we were glad to be able to skip it this time.  There were long lines of traffic as we left the city but we were soon on our way to one of our greatest adventures ever.  Next post:  Part 2:  Gorkha to Baluwa.